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Heirloom Tomato Season, Autumn Equinox, and September Seasonal Produce

Baker Lake

This Monday opens on an early morning, hotel room coffee and a strong urge to flee the city, even though I've been here less than 12 hours. I've already witnesses a car broken into in front of me. and as my partner pulled up he said he just saw someone running out of the pharmacy next door with a case of beer. I went to bed after covering up all my own valuables (kitchen equipment in the car outside a SEA-TAC airport doesn't mix well) and honestly it just left me thankful for the weekend we'd spent in nature without any outside noise. We found chanterelles and lobster mushrooms galore, and had a dinner of potato-beef stew and caramelized porcini and chanterelles. Dessert was mezcal and leftover peach cobbler on the fire which was even better than it was fresh. We swam in the lake and enjoyed another warm day soaking up the sun and quiet. There are only so many more long days, and they're already getting shorter


The Autumn Equinox, falling every year on September 22nd or 23rd, is the last night of summer and first day of Fall. More scientifically, it is when the hours of sunlight are the same length as the hours of darkness. Tonight, we start to lose our long days of sunlight in the Northern Hemisphere.


But don't lose heart, sweet summer soul, because every season brings us so many good things.


Before I get started on what a bountiful mushroom foraging it is becoming, I want to recover some special memories. Ones that I haven't taken for granted, but just haven't spent time to transcribe from each sensation. Aside from our known-and-loved Juicy Peaches (and Nectarine), the Heirloom Tomato has stood up for itself yet again, proving time and time again that the Tomato is King. We've had many a tomato tower, sliced tomato rounds for shining on their own, or with my personal favorite with Yuzu Koshō and Spruce Tip Vinaigrette. We've slurped up tomato juice after slicing with a knife very sharp knife or serrated, and even enjoyed quartered without any salt (gasp). Friends and East of Eden have shared their gardens, and the smell of tomato vines will live happily in my brain as the smell of summer. Here are a few favorites:


Sam Berry Photography of Heirloom Tomatoes on a table
sliced tomatoes with herbs and purple shiso pesto
chef Abigail Schmitt setting up for a wedding in Chelan, WAshington

The giddy feeling I have of how good these taste was apparent on my face as we set up the edible tablescape for an event in Chelan this week. Note the stamp on the peach box too.



Apologies if you're not a fan.


I have one favorite new staple recipe for capturing summer in a jar purple shiso-macademia pesto which will stay fresh for at least two months unopened, three in the fridge and maybe 4 months in the freezer.


Other favorite ways to bottle up summer:


  • Whipping fresh herbs with butter in your kitchenaid or food processor, 1-2 handfuls of chopped herbs to each 1 lb butter (preferable unsalted until you're ready to eat it. Parsley, basil, shiso, cilantro...


  • Woody herbs like thyme, rosemary, marjoram, sage or oregano cleaned but on the flavorful stems, packed in in a jar or clear wine bottle, covered with olive oil. Refrigerate so it won't go rancid or bland (taste it before using - fresh and bright, or flat / rancid?) Use the oils in salad dressings or for bread soaking. Add whole cloves of garlic for an extra hard hitter. When you're finished with the oil, add the herbs to your braising or stock pot.


  • Drying herbs and flowers from your garden for tea: Rose petals, raspberry leaves, chamomile, edible lavender, hibiscus...tell me what your garden grows!


  • Floral Rice Papers: Press fresh flowers flat between two hydrated rice papers (the ones used for spring rolls) This works really well with fresh herbs too! Follow the recipe for frying.


  • Ice cubes with flowers or berries: great for fun drinks, but maybe limiting in the world of savory. Maybe someone has tried preserving flowers in frosting?


I want to make an effort to highlight September Produce, which is that bridge between summer and falls. We have Melons of all kinds next to Winter Squash, Corn and Nectarines competing with fresh Figs. Blueberries and Huckleberries are still hanging on the bushes while Lobster Mushrooms, Porcinis and Chanterelles are in full force. Fresh Artichokes are a favorite of mine, and I've seen lots of jewel peppers and cucumbers in the farm stands. I won't lie that I want to get my pumpkins soon, but for now I will finish off the rest of my heirloom tomato salsa and "sun" dried tomatoes before that happens.


Cheers to this season and next,


Abigail


Chef Abigail Schmitt setting up the Italian style edible tablescape


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